A taste of things to come.
Plant-based proteins are increasingly popular with diners.
A good vegan milk needs to look like milk and taste like milk, whether it's a fatty version, preferred by bakers, or a skimmed one, favoured by the health-conscious.
And, for coffee-drinkers, it should ideally foam like the stuff from a cow.
For years manufacturers have had trouble hacking this delicate imitation game.
Rapidly rising revenues suggest that they are getting much better at it.
In America alone, $2.6bn of plant-based milk was sold in 2021, up from $2bn in 2018.
Pseudo-milks are only one category in the growing assortment of passable plant-based alternatives to animal products.
There are now convincing versions not just of meat but of cheese, eggs and even prawns.
Burger King and McDonald's sell vegan patties; Chipotle has made a plant-based chorizo.
Last year the world's largest producer of canned tuna, Thai Union, launched a plant-based line.
Growing sales show the growing taste for this type of foodstuff.
BCG, a consultancy, reckons that global revenues from alternative proteins could reach $290bn by 2035--and that is a cautious estimate.
Eager investors have poured into the business like oatmilk into a latte.
Alternative-protein companies lapped up $5bn in investments in 2021, 60% more than in 2020.
Oatly, a Swedish firm that makes plant-based milk, raised $1.4bn on its Nasdaq debut last year.
Impossible Foods, which makes meatless burgers, raised $500m in November, valuing the firm at $7bn.
In February Nestlé, a packaged-goods giant, acquired Orgain, which makes plant-based protein powder, for an undisclosed sum rumoured to be around $2bn.
Can the feast last?
One reason to be hopeful is that alternative proteins have come a long way since the 1980s, when Quorn, a fungus-based meat alternative, first hit supermarket shelves.
Silk, a soya milk, followed in the 1990s.
Unlike those early products, which were neither terribly tasty nor particularly nutritious, the latest crop are often both.
Clever processing improves texture, additives boost taste and a pinch of specially engineered peas and beans adds nutrients.